Betta Care
Looking to buy your first betta? Or perhaps to improve your betta caring skills? Here's where to start!
Tl;dr:
Your betta needs a heater (78 presets are fine), and a filter. The minimum tank size recommended is 5 gallons. Your betta needs the filter for aeration, filtering, and beneficial bacterial growth, but you want low flow. Make sure your tank is well decorated. Live plants have lots of benefits, but silk plants or plastic plants (checked for sharp edges) are good too.
Bettas are carnivores and need a lot of protein. Frozen bloodworms are good and easy to find, as are betta specific pellets (Omega One is a good brand). Variety is good in their diet as well.
It's best to cycle your tank for 6 to 8 weeks (starting the cycle with an ammonium source, and it is cycled when nitrates are produced) prior to adding your fish. Or do 30-50% water changes every or every other day if you are doing a fish-in cycle (This may be dangerous for your fish and so is not advised). Get a testing kit or strips, you'll need to keep an eye on parameters either way.
Especially if you're on city/chlorinated water, you'll need a dechlorinator, as chlorine is very toxic to your fish.
Acceptable tankmates depend very much on the individual betta. But generally, don't keep any bettas together, or with other fish.
After your tank is cycled, 20-25% weekly or every other week water changes are recommended to keep your nitrates down.
Bettas are carnivores and need a lot of protein. Frozen bloodworms are good and easy to find, as are betta specific pellets (Omega One is a good brand). Variety is good in their diet as well.
It's best to cycle your tank for 6 to 8 weeks (starting the cycle with an ammonium source, and it is cycled when nitrates are produced) prior to adding your fish. Or do 30-50% water changes every or every other day if you are doing a fish-in cycle (This may be dangerous for your fish and so is not advised). Get a testing kit or strips, you'll need to keep an eye on parameters either way.
Especially if you're on city/chlorinated water, you'll need a dechlorinator, as chlorine is very toxic to your fish.
Acceptable tankmates depend very much on the individual betta. But generally, don't keep any bettas together, or with other fish.
After your tank is cycled, 20-25% weekly or every other week water changes are recommended to keep your nitrates down.
The Full Story:
One of the first concepts to grasp with any kind of fish care is stress. When conditions are not ideal in some way, this causes a fish stress. And, just as with humans, stress reduces the efficiency of the immune system, cause the fish to be more susceptible to diseases. Should your fish fall ill, you must then nurse it back to health. (In all likelihood, you'll end up spending more time and money on medicine and treatment, than you would if you had just bought the heater or filter or whatever it was in the first place.)
Tank Setup
Bettas are tropical fish. In nature, bettas live in rice patties, ponds, and slow streams. The water they live in is typically a few inches deep, and so is kept warm by the tropical environment. Bettas prefer temperatures in the 74-82 range (Fahrenheit). Personally, I keep my normal tanks at 78 degrees, and my breeding tank(s) at 80 degrees. This means that, unless you live in a hot tropical environment, you will need a heater. Typically, while there is an acceptable temperature range, keeping the fish at either end of that range is still not ideal. I personally would not keep a betta in a tank less than 78 degrees.
In nature, they typically have territories that are about three feet square that is a few inches in depth (About 6 inches in depth is optimal), meaning the territory is about 33 gallons of water. There is the misconception that bettas are perfectly fine in small containers. Often people think "Oh they live in shallow water, 1/2 a gallon is fine." however, they fail to consider the size of a beta's normal territory. 3 ft square isn't a small area - bettas need room to swim. Minimum, your betta should be living in a 5 gallon tank. Some sources say that a betta in fewer than 5 gallons will not be able to get a sufficient amount of exercise, causing it to become depressed (thus lowering its immune system, etc). All of my fish are in a 5 gallon or more tank. The other reason for having fish in a larger tank, is that as fish poop, and inevitably miss some food, these things start to decompose and release various chemicals, such as ammonia, into the water that can be deadly for your fish, a smaller container means these build up faster and the water quality is harder to maintain. Besides, would you wanna live in a mason jar your whole life? Probably not.
In addition to size and temperature, bettas also need filtration. Clean water is key to a happy and healthy fish. They may live in "muddy" places in nature, but keep in mind that these fish have been domesticated for ages. They aren't wild. Even wild fish will do much better in clean water. As mentioned with small tanks, filters help to remove some of the chemicals that come from decomposing waste. Filtration will also help keep your tank clean and looking nice!
Bettas possess a labyrinth organ which allows them to breath air similar to how we would. This allows them to survive, in nature, should their water become stagnant or isolated and low on oxygen. They also have gills for filtering oxygen out of water, as other fish do. This is why pet stores are able to keep bettas in cups, once they've used all of the oxygen in the water in the cup, instead of suffocating as other fish would, they are able to go to the surface to breathe. This, however, is not preferred. It is a survival tactic, and should not be their primary source of oxygen. A filter or airstone will help with aeration. These do so by agitating the surface, causing gas exchange with the air. One of the best types of filters for bettas are Sponge Filters as they provide the surface agitation, but little lateral flow, and the intake is less aggressive. This makes it ideal for longfinned bettas that are easily buffeted by currents and aren't as strong swimmers.
Bettas, again, come from natural environments that have things like plants (Surprisingly). Make sure your betta has plenty of plants, live or fake, to swim around in, and other things, such as rocks and hides, to keep them occupied. Live plants provide many benefits, such as using up some nitrates (discussed later), providing a small amount of oxygen, and food (IF in a tank with an herbivore that will eat said plant. Bettas are not herbivores and will not eat plants). When buying fake plants, always try to feel the plastic beforehand, make sure there are no sharp or hard edges that could rip your fish's fins. The best way to test for these sharp edges is to run pantyhose over the plant - if it snags the pantyhose, it will likely snag your betta's fins, ripping them (This can and should be done with decor too!). Silk plants are great for bettas, however I prefer to find soft plastic ones, because the algae growth on fabric is a pain to remove.
Hides or heavily planted areas will give your fish a place to hide if it needs to should it feel stressed, and will provide engagement for the inquisitive bettas. They enjoy exploring so don't hesitate to mix up your setup! Keep in mind, however, that they are inquisitive and may very well get themselves stuck somewhere, so ensure that if there in an entrance to something, there is either room for the fish to turn around, or a separate exit. The "rule of thumb" for if a betta can fit into something, is literally if you fit your thumb in there, the fish can fit. However, everyone has different sized thumbs and bettas WILL try to wiggle into too small areas, so take it with a grain of salt.
Here is a more comprehensive article on when fish bowls / small or unfiltered tanks are not good for your fish:
https://www.petmd.com/fish/care/evr_fi_fish-that-can-live-in-a-bowl
Here is an article that goes over why there is a minimum size for a betta tank, and how you can go about setting up your tank!:
https://www.tropicalfishcareguides.com/betta-fish-care/betta-fish-aquarium-size/
Here is an article on why filters are good:
https://www.tropicalfishcareguides.com/betta-fish-care/best-filter-for-betta-fish/
Here is an very detailed article on why filters are important and the different kinds you may wish to use:
https://www.firsttankguide.net/filters.php
Here is a detailed article on Labyrinth organs:
https://www.thesprucepets.com/what-is-a-labyrinth-fish-1380796
Here is an excellent article on decoration types, what to watch for, and why:
https://www.bettacarefishguide.com/best-decorations-for-betta-fish/
Bettas are tropical fish. In nature, bettas live in rice patties, ponds, and slow streams. The water they live in is typically a few inches deep, and so is kept warm by the tropical environment. Bettas prefer temperatures in the 74-82 range (Fahrenheit). Personally, I keep my normal tanks at 78 degrees, and my breeding tank(s) at 80 degrees. This means that, unless you live in a hot tropical environment, you will need a heater. Typically, while there is an acceptable temperature range, keeping the fish at either end of that range is still not ideal. I personally would not keep a betta in a tank less than 78 degrees.
In nature, they typically have territories that are about three feet square that is a few inches in depth (About 6 inches in depth is optimal), meaning the territory is about 33 gallons of water. There is the misconception that bettas are perfectly fine in small containers. Often people think "Oh they live in shallow water, 1/2 a gallon is fine." however, they fail to consider the size of a beta's normal territory. 3 ft square isn't a small area - bettas need room to swim. Minimum, your betta should be living in a 5 gallon tank. Some sources say that a betta in fewer than 5 gallons will not be able to get a sufficient amount of exercise, causing it to become depressed (thus lowering its immune system, etc). All of my fish are in a 5 gallon or more tank. The other reason for having fish in a larger tank, is that as fish poop, and inevitably miss some food, these things start to decompose and release various chemicals, such as ammonia, into the water that can be deadly for your fish, a smaller container means these build up faster and the water quality is harder to maintain. Besides, would you wanna live in a mason jar your whole life? Probably not.
In addition to size and temperature, bettas also need filtration. Clean water is key to a happy and healthy fish. They may live in "muddy" places in nature, but keep in mind that these fish have been domesticated for ages. They aren't wild. Even wild fish will do much better in clean water. As mentioned with small tanks, filters help to remove some of the chemicals that come from decomposing waste. Filtration will also help keep your tank clean and looking nice!
Bettas possess a labyrinth organ which allows them to breath air similar to how we would. This allows them to survive, in nature, should their water become stagnant or isolated and low on oxygen. They also have gills for filtering oxygen out of water, as other fish do. This is why pet stores are able to keep bettas in cups, once they've used all of the oxygen in the water in the cup, instead of suffocating as other fish would, they are able to go to the surface to breathe. This, however, is not preferred. It is a survival tactic, and should not be their primary source of oxygen. A filter or airstone will help with aeration. These do so by agitating the surface, causing gas exchange with the air. One of the best types of filters for bettas are Sponge Filters as they provide the surface agitation, but little lateral flow, and the intake is less aggressive. This makes it ideal for longfinned bettas that are easily buffeted by currents and aren't as strong swimmers.
Bettas, again, come from natural environments that have things like plants (Surprisingly). Make sure your betta has plenty of plants, live or fake, to swim around in, and other things, such as rocks and hides, to keep them occupied. Live plants provide many benefits, such as using up some nitrates (discussed later), providing a small amount of oxygen, and food (IF in a tank with an herbivore that will eat said plant. Bettas are not herbivores and will not eat plants). When buying fake plants, always try to feel the plastic beforehand, make sure there are no sharp or hard edges that could rip your fish's fins. The best way to test for these sharp edges is to run pantyhose over the plant - if it snags the pantyhose, it will likely snag your betta's fins, ripping them (This can and should be done with decor too!). Silk plants are great for bettas, however I prefer to find soft plastic ones, because the algae growth on fabric is a pain to remove.
Hides or heavily planted areas will give your fish a place to hide if it needs to should it feel stressed, and will provide engagement for the inquisitive bettas. They enjoy exploring so don't hesitate to mix up your setup! Keep in mind, however, that they are inquisitive and may very well get themselves stuck somewhere, so ensure that if there in an entrance to something, there is either room for the fish to turn around, or a separate exit. The "rule of thumb" for if a betta can fit into something, is literally if you fit your thumb in there, the fish can fit. However, everyone has different sized thumbs and bettas WILL try to wiggle into too small areas, so take it with a grain of salt.
Here is a more comprehensive article on when fish bowls / small or unfiltered tanks are not good for your fish:
https://www.petmd.com/fish/care/evr_fi_fish-that-can-live-in-a-bowl
Here is an article that goes over why there is a minimum size for a betta tank, and how you can go about setting up your tank!:
https://www.tropicalfishcareguides.com/betta-fish-care/betta-fish-aquarium-size/
Here is an article on why filters are good:
https://www.tropicalfishcareguides.com/betta-fish-care/best-filter-for-betta-fish/
Here is an very detailed article on why filters are important and the different kinds you may wish to use:
https://www.firsttankguide.net/filters.php
Here is a detailed article on Labyrinth organs:
https://www.thesprucepets.com/what-is-a-labyrinth-fish-1380796
Here is an excellent article on decoration types, what to watch for, and why:
https://www.bettacarefishguide.com/best-decorations-for-betta-fish/
Food
Bettas are carnivores. In their natural habitat they eat insects and other small creatures. Basically, they need a lot of protein. Live foods are great for bettas, as they will enjoy hunting them. Frozen foods are good too, as they are close to their natural diets (ish) and have proper nutrients. Microworms, Brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms are all common and good live food sources. There are also many pellets and flakes marketed for bettas, these work too. Omega One is a popular brand that has good products. Freeze-dried foods don't have a whole lot of nutrients, but make a good occasional treat! Don't be afraid to mix up your betta's diet from time to time. Even rotating between different pellets, and flakes (for example) on a weekly basis is good, it doesn't have to extravagant, but it will ensure your betta gets a wider variety of nutrients. With anything though, remember to soak the food beforehand, so that is expands prior to being consumed (rather than expanding in the stomach) to prevent bloat. How/how long it's soaked will depend on the food. Also remember that a betta's stomach is roughly the size of its eye - they don't need a ton of food, but they WILL overeat if given the chance!
Here is a nice article discussing food options:
https://www.fishkeepingworld.com/best-betta-food/
Here is an article that lists several live food choices:
https://www.alltropicalfish.com/freshwater-topics/83-foods-and-feeding/178-6-healthiest-live-food-choices-for-betta-fish
Bettas are carnivores. In their natural habitat they eat insects and other small creatures. Basically, they need a lot of protein. Live foods are great for bettas, as they will enjoy hunting them. Frozen foods are good too, as they are close to their natural diets (ish) and have proper nutrients. Microworms, Brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms are all common and good live food sources. There are also many pellets and flakes marketed for bettas, these work too. Omega One is a popular brand that has good products. Freeze-dried foods don't have a whole lot of nutrients, but make a good occasional treat! Don't be afraid to mix up your betta's diet from time to time. Even rotating between different pellets, and flakes (for example) on a weekly basis is good, it doesn't have to extravagant, but it will ensure your betta gets a wider variety of nutrients. With anything though, remember to soak the food beforehand, so that is expands prior to being consumed (rather than expanding in the stomach) to prevent bloat. How/how long it's soaked will depend on the food. Also remember that a betta's stomach is roughly the size of its eye - they don't need a ton of food, but they WILL overeat if given the chance!
Here is a nice article discussing food options:
https://www.fishkeepingworld.com/best-betta-food/
Here is an article that lists several live food choices:
https://www.alltropicalfish.com/freshwater-topics/83-foods-and-feeding/178-6-healthiest-live-food-choices-for-betta-fish
Nitrogen Cycle
This is a very important part of fish keeping! In every tank, there is an ongoing process called the nitrogen cycle (This cycle also occurs on a larger scale in nature!). The very basics of it are:
Some people choose to do a fish-in cycle, using the fish itself as the ammonia producer. This can be hard on the fish (As they'll be living through high levels of toxic compounds), so generally a hardy fish is used to do this. domestic Bettas really aren't very hardy, and so will often become stressed and sick during this process. People who choose to do a fish-in cycle must do 30-50% water changes daily or every other day to keep their fish safe.
But where are these bacteria found in your tank? On surfaces! These bacteria will grow on any and all surfaces - the sides, the decor, the substrate, and the filter! The substrate and filter have a LOT of surface area and so will hold the majority of the bacteria, hence why it is actually bad to change your filter a lot. You're losing that beneficial bacteria.
Also be cautious of adding too many fish if you're doing a community or sorority, too many fish can cause an ammonia spike and "overload" your cycle, essentially, meaning it will have to go through a mini-cycle as the bacteria catches up.
Another word of caution, there are companies that sell "bottled bacteria". There is a lot of debate in the fish keeping community on whether this is actually beneficial at all. If you choose to add this, know it will not cycle your tank. Think of it more like a seed. It still needs to be fed with ammonia and needs to grow to the point it can support the cycle.
Whichever method of cycling you decide to go with, the most important thing you can get is a testing kit, or testing strips at the very least (The API master kit is very highly recommended) to keep track of where your tank is at in the cycle.
Here is an excellent video nitrogen cycle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWoiCqCvJco
Here's the basics again:
https://www.thesprucepets.com/nitrogen-cycle-understanding-1380724
https://kb.rspca.org.au/knowledge-base/why-is-an-understanding-of-the-nitrogen-cycle-important-when-setting-up-a-fish-aquarium/
Here's some information on fish-in cycles:
https://www.aquasprouts.com/blogs/everything-aquaponics/41488388-cycling-with-fish
This is a very important part of fish keeping! In every tank, there is an ongoing process called the nitrogen cycle (This cycle also occurs on a larger scale in nature!). The very basics of it are:
- Fish poop, extra food is missed, pieces of plants die, and all these things begin to decompose. As they do, ammonia is released. This is very toxic and can burn or kill your fish (It is deadly at 0.2 ppm, and can cause burns and injury at lower concentrations. Basically you don't want ANY)
- Luckily! There are special bacteria that can utilize this ammonia! As they use the ammonia in their metabolism, they reproduce. Eventually there are large enough colonies of these bacteria in your tank to convert the majority of the ammonia to another compound: Nitrites (NO2-)
- Nitrites are also toxic to your fish, however (Just 5ppm can be toxic!). But again, there are other bacteria that can utilize this. Like the other bacteria, they'll use this, and reproduce until there is enough of them to convert the majority of the nitrites to the next compound: Nitrates (NO3-)
- Now, nitrates are also toxic to your fish, but only at higher concentrations - like 80ppm. However, while not toxic to that point, it's really only considered safe up to 40ppm, and 10-20ppm is considered "normal" (A reading of 0ppm may indicate that your tank is not cycled)
- Nitrates can be utilized by plants, but the best way to remove them is through frequent water changes (20-25% weekly is considered normal).
Some people choose to do a fish-in cycle, using the fish itself as the ammonia producer. This can be hard on the fish (As they'll be living through high levels of toxic compounds), so generally a hardy fish is used to do this. domestic Bettas really aren't very hardy, and so will often become stressed and sick during this process. People who choose to do a fish-in cycle must do 30-50% water changes daily or every other day to keep their fish safe.
But where are these bacteria found in your tank? On surfaces! These bacteria will grow on any and all surfaces - the sides, the decor, the substrate, and the filter! The substrate and filter have a LOT of surface area and so will hold the majority of the bacteria, hence why it is actually bad to change your filter a lot. You're losing that beneficial bacteria.
Also be cautious of adding too many fish if you're doing a community or sorority, too many fish can cause an ammonia spike and "overload" your cycle, essentially, meaning it will have to go through a mini-cycle as the bacteria catches up.
Another word of caution, there are companies that sell "bottled bacteria". There is a lot of debate in the fish keeping community on whether this is actually beneficial at all. If you choose to add this, know it will not cycle your tank. Think of it more like a seed. It still needs to be fed with ammonia and needs to grow to the point it can support the cycle.
Whichever method of cycling you decide to go with, the most important thing you can get is a testing kit, or testing strips at the very least (The API master kit is very highly recommended) to keep track of where your tank is at in the cycle.
Here is an excellent video nitrogen cycle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWoiCqCvJco
Here's the basics again:
https://www.thesprucepets.com/nitrogen-cycle-understanding-1380724
https://kb.rspca.org.au/knowledge-base/why-is-an-understanding-of-the-nitrogen-cycle-important-when-setting-up-a-fish-aquarium/
Here's some information on fish-in cycles:
https://www.aquasprouts.com/blogs/everything-aquaponics/41488388-cycling-with-fish
Tank Treatments
When at the store looking at bettas, you've probably seen water conditioners, some marketed for bettas. Using one labelled specifically for bettas is not necessary! Any conditioners will work, the main point of them is to remove chlorine from your tap water (which is also toxic - not only will it poison your fish, but it will kill the bacteria in your cycle as it is added to the water to sterilize it). If you have well water, you may or may not have to worry about chlorine, look into if you water has it. Some water conditioners provide other benefits, however, such as removing heavy metals, stabilizing pH, or repairing slime coats. Find a brand of water conditioner you like and stick with that. Personally, I do use "Stress coat" simply because it seems to work well with the water I'm using (I am on non-chlorinated well water so dechlorination isn't important to me).
There are many other things you may wish to use in your water. I use vitachem in all of my tanks when doing water changes, and in most of my tanks once a week to provide some extra vitamins they may not get. You must figure out what works for your tank and water. Do some googling, read the labels carefully.
Here is an article that covers the things I just discussed and more:
https://www.thesprucepets.com/treating-aquarium-water-1381916
When at the store looking at bettas, you've probably seen water conditioners, some marketed for bettas. Using one labelled specifically for bettas is not necessary! Any conditioners will work, the main point of them is to remove chlorine from your tap water (which is also toxic - not only will it poison your fish, but it will kill the bacteria in your cycle as it is added to the water to sterilize it). If you have well water, you may or may not have to worry about chlorine, look into if you water has it. Some water conditioners provide other benefits, however, such as removing heavy metals, stabilizing pH, or repairing slime coats. Find a brand of water conditioner you like and stick with that. Personally, I do use "Stress coat" simply because it seems to work well with the water I'm using (I am on non-chlorinated well water so dechlorination isn't important to me).
There are many other things you may wish to use in your water. I use vitachem in all of my tanks when doing water changes, and in most of my tanks once a week to provide some extra vitamins they may not get. You must figure out what works for your tank and water. Do some googling, read the labels carefully.
Here is an article that covers the things I just discussed and more:
https://www.thesprucepets.com/treating-aquarium-water-1381916
Tank Mates
One of the questions I get a lot is "Can I put my betta with X?" and the answer is: it depends. Females are generally less aggressive than males, and so are often kept together, which are called Sororities. However, I've had females that get along great with some, and terribly with others. So even this depends, you can't assume that they will get along. They can also live with other kinds of fish, of course, but, again, they'll have ones they don't get along with.
Males are generally kept alone. If you put two together, it is very likely they will fight to the death. Which isn't good, obviously. Some males can live with other kinds of fish, though it depends on the temperaments of the male and the other fish.
What about males and females together? Males and females will fight each other. The breeding process can be quite violent, even when done correctly. If you keep males and females together, you're still going to end up with some dead or injured fish. And possibly some fry too. It's generally better not to keep them together, basically.
As for other fish, it really depends on temperaments. That's all I can say. Even if so-and-so said X kind of fish is supposed to work well with bettas, your betta may have different opinions. Snails are a common tankmate, however. I prefer nerite snails over mystery snails, as nerite snails require salt water for their eggs to hatch. Mystery snails can breed in fresh water, and so even if you only buy one from the pet store, it may already have fertilized eggs, so you may end up with many tiny baby snails. That's a hard no for me personally. Snails are excellent algae cleaners though, usually about 1 per 5 gallons does the job (For most snails). Not to mention, snails also have a bioload. Mystery snails have a larger bioload than nerites. There are also "pest" snails like pond/bladder snails, ramshorns, and malaysian trumpet snails. Out of those, my prefered snails are the ramshorns, because at least they're pretty when they take over your tank. Keep in mind some bettas really hate snails and will spend enough time stressing over them it can be detrimental to their health.
But again, a lot of this depends on so many things it's nearly impossible to give any kind of definite answer.
Also, keep in mind there's such a thing as overstocking a tank. (If you are trying to plan a community tank) Planning stocking is not as simple as "One inch of fish per gallon" (That "rule" is outdated). One needs to take into account the required amount of swimming space a fish needs (i.e. 5 gallons for bettas), their bioload (Some fish are very messy, like platys and goldfish), and the size they may grow to (Like most goldfish will exceed 12 inches at full size). AqAdvisor is a good starting place for getting an idea of stocking and filtration capacity, but is not the be-all-end-all of stocking (It is also very often down or offline, if this occurs, try using a different browser, that may work). It is best to ask an experienced fish keeper, this can be done in person, if you know someone, or through a forum (Such as FishLore). Petco/Petsmart employees are often (though not always, it happens VERY often) likely to give you incorrect information.
Here is an article discussing sororities:
https://japanesefightingfish.org/female-betta-fish-sorority-tanks/
Here is an article discussing other fish you may wish to consider keeping with your bettas:
https://japanesefightingfish.org/what-fish-can-live-with-bettas/
Here is an article discussing keeping males and females together (Not recommended):
https://www.bettacarefishguide.com/can-a-male-and-female-betta-fish-live-together/
One of the questions I get a lot is "Can I put my betta with X?" and the answer is: it depends. Females are generally less aggressive than males, and so are often kept together, which are called Sororities. However, I've had females that get along great with some, and terribly with others. So even this depends, you can't assume that they will get along. They can also live with other kinds of fish, of course, but, again, they'll have ones they don't get along with.
Males are generally kept alone. If you put two together, it is very likely they will fight to the death. Which isn't good, obviously. Some males can live with other kinds of fish, though it depends on the temperaments of the male and the other fish.
What about males and females together? Males and females will fight each other. The breeding process can be quite violent, even when done correctly. If you keep males and females together, you're still going to end up with some dead or injured fish. And possibly some fry too. It's generally better not to keep them together, basically.
As for other fish, it really depends on temperaments. That's all I can say. Even if so-and-so said X kind of fish is supposed to work well with bettas, your betta may have different opinions. Snails are a common tankmate, however. I prefer nerite snails over mystery snails, as nerite snails require salt water for their eggs to hatch. Mystery snails can breed in fresh water, and so even if you only buy one from the pet store, it may already have fertilized eggs, so you may end up with many tiny baby snails. That's a hard no for me personally. Snails are excellent algae cleaners though, usually about 1 per 5 gallons does the job (For most snails). Not to mention, snails also have a bioload. Mystery snails have a larger bioload than nerites. There are also "pest" snails like pond/bladder snails, ramshorns, and malaysian trumpet snails. Out of those, my prefered snails are the ramshorns, because at least they're pretty when they take over your tank. Keep in mind some bettas really hate snails and will spend enough time stressing over them it can be detrimental to their health.
But again, a lot of this depends on so many things it's nearly impossible to give any kind of definite answer.
Also, keep in mind there's such a thing as overstocking a tank. (If you are trying to plan a community tank) Planning stocking is not as simple as "One inch of fish per gallon" (That "rule" is outdated). One needs to take into account the required amount of swimming space a fish needs (i.e. 5 gallons for bettas), their bioload (Some fish are very messy, like platys and goldfish), and the size they may grow to (Like most goldfish will exceed 12 inches at full size). AqAdvisor is a good starting place for getting an idea of stocking and filtration capacity, but is not the be-all-end-all of stocking (It is also very often down or offline, if this occurs, try using a different browser, that may work). It is best to ask an experienced fish keeper, this can be done in person, if you know someone, or through a forum (Such as FishLore). Petco/Petsmart employees are often (though not always, it happens VERY often) likely to give you incorrect information.
Here is an article discussing sororities:
https://japanesefightingfish.org/female-betta-fish-sorority-tanks/
Here is an article discussing other fish you may wish to consider keeping with your bettas:
https://japanesefightingfish.org/what-fish-can-live-with-bettas/
Here is an article discussing keeping males and females together (Not recommended):
https://www.bettacarefishguide.com/can-a-male-and-female-betta-fish-live-together/
Tank Cleaning
Tank cleaning depends greatly on what your specific tank needs. To avoid fluctuations in water quality, avoid thoroughly cleaning your tank (scrubbing everything clean, replacing filter, replacing all the water - you may lose your cycle or cause a minicycle). Weekly 20-25% water changes are recommended for the average tank. While doing these water changes, vacuuming the gravel can help remove waste that has fallen between the rocks. Leaving fish in during this process is often less stressful than trying to catch and remove them. Personally, the only time I remove fish is when I am completely redecorating a tank, to avoid injuring fish as I am moving things in the tank.
Some general tips I do have are:
- When catching fish use a clear cup rather than a net. The fish are less afraid of a clear cup, so catching them may be easier, and cups are less damaging to their slime coats than nets
- Purchase a turkey baster, this will allow you to suck out pieces of debris or food as you see them, this may cut down on how often you must clean your tank (If all you have is one betta in a 5 gallon, it generally has a low bioload)
- Nets are handy for scooping out excess food that is floating (Remember, food also breaks down into ammonia)
- Find a semi-large container to keep your fish in temporarily while redecorating or if you need to transport the fish.
- If this happens to apply to you, keep the cup your betta came in (like from a pet store) or, if you do not have a cup, you can ask your local Petco or Petsmart for an extra cup, if management is nice, and they have some extras, they may give you one. \
Here is an article on this:
https://nhpets.com/blog/33586/how-often-should-you-clean-your-fish-tank
Tank cleaning depends greatly on what your specific tank needs. To avoid fluctuations in water quality, avoid thoroughly cleaning your tank (scrubbing everything clean, replacing filter, replacing all the water - you may lose your cycle or cause a minicycle). Weekly 20-25% water changes are recommended for the average tank. While doing these water changes, vacuuming the gravel can help remove waste that has fallen between the rocks. Leaving fish in during this process is often less stressful than trying to catch and remove them. Personally, the only time I remove fish is when I am completely redecorating a tank, to avoid injuring fish as I am moving things in the tank.
Some general tips I do have are:
- When catching fish use a clear cup rather than a net. The fish are less afraid of a clear cup, so catching them may be easier, and cups are less damaging to their slime coats than nets
- Purchase a turkey baster, this will allow you to suck out pieces of debris or food as you see them, this may cut down on how often you must clean your tank (If all you have is one betta in a 5 gallon, it generally has a low bioload)
- Nets are handy for scooping out excess food that is floating (Remember, food also breaks down into ammonia)
- Find a semi-large container to keep your fish in temporarily while redecorating or if you need to transport the fish.
- If this happens to apply to you, keep the cup your betta came in (like from a pet store) or, if you do not have a cup, you can ask your local Petco or Petsmart for an extra cup, if management is nice, and they have some extras, they may give you one. \
Here is an article on this:
https://nhpets.com/blog/33586/how-often-should-you-clean-your-fish-tank
There's a whole lot more to fish care that I haven't discussed here. If you ever have even the slightest question, don't forget how useful google is! You can use your own judgement to sort good sources from bad, and eventually you should find what you need. Should you not, there are many forums you can find where people will be more than happy to answer your questions. I highly recommend fishlore.
Remember! You'll need to get a 100 (And prove it with a screenshot!) on my Betta Care Quiz that is based on this page before you can buy a fish from me!